Flora

It is believed that the area was afforested before Sir William Ashurst’s purchase of the site. The earliest depiction, in FoHC’s archive, shows the Cedar of Lebanon with sheep grazing on the grassy area beneath.

It is possible that the bridge over the Egyptian Avenue, which features the two eagles, was part of the landscaped gardens of Ashurst House. That house was demolished to make way for the Vulliamy Church of St Michael in which parish the Western Cemetery is located.

When the London Cemetery Company purchased seventeen acres of land stretching below the church, bordered by Holly Lodge Estate and Swains Lane, the territory was cleverly landscaped by David Ramsey, with winding pathways, parterres, bedding plants and its own nurseries.

Probably as a result of the First World War and the enlistment of all able-bodied men, the gardening team was severely reduced, but even then it is said that an air of solemn formality prevailed.

Following the London Cemetery Company, the fortunes of the next owners, United Cemeteries, declined and the land passed into ownership of Raybourne whose directors dismissed the last remaining elderly staff members and closed the West side. After swift negotiations a company was acquired for the benefit of Friends of Highgate Cemetery with plans to rescue the Cemetery for its continuing use a burial ground and to make access available for Grave Owners and visitors. Camden meanwhile had surrendered its option to buy the Cemetery, abandoning their one-time underpinning of a loss-making enterprise.

Time and lack of care had bought about chaotic overgrowth, with evidence of reversion to a woodland state. When FoHC first began a programme of conservation under the guidance of a landscape architect, it was at least 10 years before all pathways were negotiable. No longer could it be said that it was “a forest with a jungle inside”, as one young visitor observed.

In August 1976, when the western cemetery was reopened by FoHC , 6000 people came to visit in the space of 2 hours! It was subsequently realised that the fragility of the environment and the derelict appearance of many building and monuments called for a tighter policy. Application was made for Government funding through Manpower Services Commission, and later on came a good deal of assistance from English Heritage with grant aid for listed buildings and monuments.

By 1988 many buildings had been repaired ‘in the image of a ruin as found’, pathways were cleared and accessible. What is called ‘managed neglect’ has been the policy in the last two decades with emphasis on supplementing woodland growth with a sturdy understorey, and a multitude of plants which complement the wild state. No longer are there any bedding plants, whereas in the 1930s there are said to have been 30,000 geranium and lobelia bordering pathways.

Those volunteers with green fingers have been enhancing the variety of plant life with gifts from neighbouring gardens. Archemilla mollis (lady’s mantle) has a Victorian look, is prolific and very green. As native woodland plants become rarer, FoHC is enhancing the cemetery with Pulmonaria or Joseph’s coat with its many varied flowers and speckled leaves; butchers broom, hosts of ferns of numerous varieties, ornamental grasses, acathas and silver stemmed bramble – the latter two providing architectural interest – rosa glouca, vinca for ground cover, together with successive flowerings according to season. In spring snowdrops and leucojum (snowflake) are succeeded by primrose, oxlip, cowslip and then blubells.

As the canopy coverage is thinned, more dormant species reappear and surveys testify to the plethora of wildlife, endorsing the Cemetery’s status as a Grade I listed park. Poor light, rising nutrient levels in the soil, as well as atmospheric pollution, all play a part in the diminution of sundry species. Sweet violet, archangel, helleborine, sanicle and herb Robert became scarce but holly is spreading. Balance is the watchword in order to maintain what is called managed neglect.

Lepidoptorists, arachnologists, ornithologists and hosts of specialist have visited and recorded many unusual and sometimes rare examples of living material; hence the significance of banning the word tidy.

There remain areas rarely visited and, whilst grave owners have access to a family grave (but not to the cemetery as a whole) in the West side much regular care is impossible to achieve. Sections in the Management Plan are designated and graded according to significance and the small staff does whatever may be necessary in strimming grass and felling diseased vegetation. Arboricultural experts are called in for major tree work and appropriate safety measures are rigorously adhered to.

Many path edges have been planted with forms of comfrey which create mats of vegetation, prevent erosion of soil in steep areas and also make marvellous compost. Shady banks give hospitality to Solomon seal whilst a sunny spot encourages vigorous solidago (golden rod) helenium, evening primrose and several forms of Michaelmas daisy.

For many years the eastern Cemetery, although hosting a more diverse plant life, was considered very much the ‘Cinderella of Highgate Cemetery’. Now and exceedingly knowledgeable, and very modest plantswoman tends the Eastern Cemetery’s principal path edges. Many Visitors now remark on the texture and variety of planting which blend with designs as varied as those who commission them.